![]() ![]() Basically, when you push this switch it gives you the ability to self-jump yourself without relying on another vehicle and a set of jumper cables. The point of this switch is so that you can force-combine your house battery bank and your starting battery in the case of your starting battery getting low. You will want to mount the momentary switch near your steering wheel so you can reach it while trying to start your vehicle. Sig: This stands for ‘Signal’ and is simply a ground wire with a momentary switch wired in line. This can be on the body near the Li-BIM or it can be run all the way back to a negative busbar. Gnd: This stands for ‘Ground’ and simply goes the a ground point on the metal chassis of your vehicle. Once You’ve found the circuit you’re going to use, use an Add-A-Circuit Fuse tap, insert a 5A fuse, and run a 18ga or larger wire from the Add-A-Circuit Fuse tap to a ¼” ring terminal and attach that to the IGN stud on the Li-BIM 225. You’re looking for a circuit that shows 12v power only when the key is on. Next, start pulling fuses, one-by-one in your fuse block and test each circuit with the key off AND the key on. One way to determine where to attach this is to use your multimeter set to DC volts, OR a test light and connect the negative probe to the the metal of your vehicle. Ign: This stands for ‘Ignition’ and needs to tap into a circuit that has 12v power when your vehicle is on. There are 5 studs on the Li-BIM, You’ll need to attach a wire to each of them and here’s where they need to go. Li-BIM Lithium Battery Isolator Wiring Diagram How to Wire a Li-BIM Lithium Battery Isolator Large Gauge Wire Between House & Start Batteries.Recommended Parts for Wiring an Li-BIM Lithium Battery Isolator This on/off cycling allows the alternator to cool down for 20 minutes between 15-minute charging bouts. This is great for rapid charging, but this high-amperage draw can potentially overheat an alternator. It does this because lithium batteries can draw a SIGNIFICANT amount of power at one time due to its low internal resistance. It will repeat this cycle as long as you are driving. The standard AGM tuned isolator will see this higher voltage as a ‘charging’ voltage and will not disconnect the starting and house batteries which means the starting battery is at risk for getting low when electronics are used from the house battery bank when the engine is off.Īlso, the Li-BIM is unique because as the alternator is engaged, the Li-BIM will connect for 15 minutes and disconnect for 20 minutes. Lithium batteries like Battle Born batteries have a slightly higher resting voltage than their AGM or Lead Acid counterparts. I know it has been done, Eric Sargent's guys did it on the white 200 in a recent video he posted.The Li-BIM is a Battery Isolator specifically designed to work with Lithium house batteries. It also seems silly to use a relay (I guess technically it is an integrated circuit) to switch a relay, to switch another relay. I suppose I could use a Switch-Pros button set on momentary to switch an external relay to do this, but the idea behind the switch-pros is to get rid of as many of the extraneous components as possible. How would you accomplish this with a Switch-Pros setup with the minimum number of extra components? If I was using a regular relay, I think I'd just use the input/control (pin 86) to switch the ground (on pin 30 and 87). Positive makes sense for most accessories, but I need to link to ground for the SBI. I'm doing all of my accessory switching through a Switch-Pros 9100, which (as far as I can tell) switches the positive side. It has a blue wire that needs to be grounded through a momentary switch to "link" the batteries to self jump start. I installed a Redarc smart battery isolator. The intermittent does need to go to ground when the SBI is used for self jump starting, in the BCDC/SBI combo. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |